Black Forest & Ballons Boogie Overview
- Countries: Germany, Luxembourg, France, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria
- Visit historic cities: Munich, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Trier, Kaysersberg
- Enjoy impressive mountains: the Vosges, the Alps
- Ride along the Danube, the Rhine, and the Mosel rivers
- Cross dozens of German, Swiss, French, and Austrian passes
Like any good mountain tour, the Boogie is endlessly climbing, descending, twisting, and turning, through the heart of the Black Forest and France's Alsace. It begins with a dose of culture and a gentle introduction to European motorcycling, thanks to easy riding days in Bavaria, and overnights in Rothenburg and on the Luxembourg border.
Daily Options—Great Choices
Choices abound from the first riding day. Choose a route to the impressive Alpine foothills to see “Mad” King Ludwig’s famous castle, Neuschwanstein. Or take an alternative ride on some of the Bavarian rider’s favorite twisties on Kesselberg, or enjoy a gentle meander through the countryside. Off the bike, BMW’s new museum and a 1000 year-old market in Munich’s old town give one an excellent sample of what Monocle Magazine calls “one of earth’s most livable cities.”
Landsberg am Lech, Germany
Regardless of the choice on the first day, the second day’s ride through the countryside to the medieval city of Rothenburg will leave a vivid impression. Bavaria’s farming villages, pristine countryside, and amusing roads project German order and efficiency at its finest.
A Glimpse Into Medieval Times
The tour’s laundry-list of “perfect medieval cities,” begins in the well-known city of Rothenburg. Wander narrow streets, enjoy a coffee and pastry in the town square, or patrol the old town wall. Imagine 30 generations of people who, like us, passed through these walls since the town was founded.
Tour members riding through Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Waterways were medieval highways for trade and transportation. From the Tauber we head west, cross the Rhine river, then the Saar, and overnight near the banks of the picturesque Mosel. The Mosel region produces some of Germany's best wine, and the roads meander along the river through stunning vineyards and ancient cities.
Three countries in a day
Our first double-overnight is at the conflux of three countries; Germany, France, and Luxembourg. Ride along the Mosel to Trier, founded in 15 BC where we find the oldest cathedral in Germany, built in the year 326. Or explore Luxembourg in detail. Or put your walking shoes on and walk across a few international borders. There simply isn't enough time to take in everything on offer!
Turning south the tour route runs through France's Alsace-Lorraine, the area central to German / French conflicts in the Thirty years' war, the Franco-Prussian war, and both World Wars. Our route(s) parallel the Maginot Line of WWII, and Germany's western front in WWI. From the quaint town of Kaysersberg it is possible to visit a number of WWI sites and to grasp the enormity of this conflict. A few decades later, Patton and the U.S. 3rd Army advanced across the Alsace on what is now known as the Liberation Route. The calm scenery and great motorcycle roads give little indication of how much blood has been shed and how many lives have been lost here throughout history.
A medieval home in Kaysersberg, France
Ballons are large, rounded mountains (resembling balloons) in the Vosges range. They are laced with perfect roads. If you like curves and big views, the rides from Kaysersberg are certain to be a highlight! The hilltop meadows are prime grazing land, and you may be sharing the road now and again with locals.
A young herder more interested in our motorcycles than his herd
From the summit of the Grand Ballon, the highest mountain in the Vosges, the entire eastern horizon is filled with... Alps! On a clear day the Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn, Mount Blanc, the Eiger, the Jungfrau, and the Monk seem close enough to touch.
Seen from here those peaks present an almost irresistible draw. Those are real mountains. But there is more magical riding before we get to the Alps. First we head east, deep into Germany's famous Black Forest where we may ride the famous B500 High Road. With the B500 in your rear-view mirror you will be well prepared to tackle more amusing, less well-known roads on the free-day in the Black Forest. It won't take long to understand why this area is a favorite of German riders.
The villages and hamlets along the way seem picture-perfect, exactly as you expected. The forests are so thick they really do, at times, seem black.
The southern half of the Black Forest is less vertical, somehow smoother. As we head south over these mountains we get closer and closer to the high Swiss Alps.
Majestic is a word most appropriate for Switzerland's Klausenpass. It presents itself with a shout, not a crescendo. The scenery is simply there, out of nowhere, huge and stunning. An image from the Klausen is worthy of this page's masthead.
Our last free day takes place in the middle of the highest and most impressive Swiss passes. Ride the Susten, the Grimsel, the Furka, and a few more, if you desire.
The Susten Pass. Magical!
These are special roads through unforgettable scenery. The elevation changes are significant, and the engineering of the roadways second to none. Our bet is that this free day is one spent on the motorcycle, without regret.
More mountains and intriguing passes through them stand between us and the next overnight stop in Feldkirch, Austria. Like each day on the Black Forest Boogie you may choose a little or a lot! One pass, or many. A few hours of riding, or the entire day. Two countries, or three.
Which ever way it goes the ride ends in the Austrian town of Feldkirch, protected by stout city walls and four watchtowers, all set in the shadow of a castle.
Returning to Munich, with the Alps over your right shoulder and so many memories following in your vortex, this trip will replay itself again and again. And there you have it - dreams turned into memories.
