Fall Frolic Overview
- Countries: Germany, Austria, Italy, Slovenia, Czech Republic
- Visit historic cities: Munich, Prague, Bled, Piran
- Visit Munich's Oktoberfest
- Ride amazing roads in Slovenia
- Enjoy impressive mountains: The Dolomites, The Julian Alps
- Visit Ludwig's Castles
- Check the Grossglockner High Alpine Road off your bucket list
- Dip a toe in the Adriatic
- Cross dozens of Italian, Slovenian, and Austrian passes
Rob and Gretchen Beach are fond of Prague, a remarkable city on the Danube. In 2023 they developed this itinerary to head there. The fall tour offered the possibility of enjoying a day at the Oktoberfest. In between they decided to revisit known favorites and poke around in a few new locales. The result? A frolic!
Like any good Alpine tour, the Fall Frolic is endlessly climbing, descending, twisting, and turning through the heart of the eastern Alps. It begins with a dose of culture and an gentle introduction to European motorcycling, thanks to easy riding days in Bavaria and the Czech Republic, and overnights in Rothenburg and Prague.
Daily Options—Great Choices
Choices abound from the first riding day. Choose a route to the impressive Alpine foothills to see “Mad” King Ludwig’s famous castle, Neuschwanstein. Or take an alternative ride on some of the Bavarian rider’s favorite twisties on Kesselberg, or enjoy a gentle meander through the countryside. Off the bike, BMW’s new museum and a 1000 year-old market in Munich’s old town give one an excellent sample of what Monocle Magazine calls “one of earth’s most livable cities.”
Landsberg am Lech, Germany
Regardless of the choice on the first day, the second day’s ride through the countryside to the medieval city of Rothenburg will leave a vivid impression. Bavaria’s farming villages, pristine countryside, and amusing roads project German order and efficiency at its finest.
A Glimpse Into Medieval Times
The tour’s laundry-list of “perfect medieval cities,” begins in the well-known city of Rothenburg. Wander narrow streets, enjoy a coffee and pastry in the town square, or patrol the old town wall. Imagine 30 generations of people who, like us, passed through these walls since the town was founded.
Head into Bavaria’s Fichtelgebirge, or Fichtel mountains, to discover more relaxing rural scenery dotted with delightful Bavarian villages and farms. We overnight in the middle of this small mountain range to enjoy excellent local roads with copious curves and little traffic.
Some of the tour members riding through Rothenburg am Tauber, Germany
The Czech Republic—It’s Not The Same
Descending from the German hills to the plains of the Czech Republic is a trip from one culture to another. Under Communist rule as Czechoslovakia, the now democratic Czech Republic seems to be missing a few decades of “progress.”
Our trip across the former Iron Curtain now goes with neither incident nor inconvenience. On the eastern side of the border the farms are a bit larger, harking to an era of the collective, the towns a bit poorer, the roads fewer. Below the surface everything is different, and intriguing due to those differences.
Then comes Prague—the stunning jewel of the Czech Republic. Even the hardcore rider will be drawn away from the bike and into the fascinating maze of streets and unique medieval buildings. The view of the Castle from the Charles Bridge, or of the river from the castle ramparts will be one of the defining memories of the entire trip.
The Charles Bridge, across the Vltava River, Prague
With memories of Prague tucked away, riders turn south to Austria. The little town of Freistadt lies just across the Czech/Austrian border and is, of course, protected by its own wall. The craftsmen’s houses on the town square will keep cameras busy during a walk around town.
Austria’s alpine foothills make for delightful riding. Few straights, sweeping corners, and the occasional tight turn here and there keep it all interesting. Along the roadside, rivers, valleys and small lakes dot the view. An overnight in Admont allows us to enjoy another night of Austrian hospitality.
To The Alps!
The terrain begins to climb, and we along with it, as we move from the Austrian state of Styria to Carinthia on the way to Slovenia. The Austrian Alps are magnificent, and a variety of lightly trafficked roads offer the rider a taste of what the next week will bring. The previous riding has been great. Now it becomes excellent!
A choice of small, yet high and significant, mountain passes will usher you into Slovenia.
Lake Bled
A double-overnight in Bled, in the Julian Alps, means more choices. Head north back into Austria and visit the picturesque town of Villach? Play here and there on great, tiny Slovenian roads? Sit on top of a mountain and enjoy an Alpine picnic? Difficult decisions, as each option is a perfect way to spend a day!
Enjoy A Sunset Over The Sea
Back on the road, a kitty-corner romp across Slovenia allows us to dip a toe in the Adriatic. Overnight in Piran, a Istrian coastal town that has managed to keep its historic charm and remain a vibrant, authentic community. Its Old Town is among the best-preserved anywhere in the Adriatic, with beautiful architecture boasting Venetian influences and rich pastel colors. In Piran, fishermen cast their nets from the pier in the morning while local farmers deliver their products and produce to the market. Locals start their day with a cup of coffee, overlooking the sea, talking, and greeting passersby with a friendly nod of the head.
Old Church, Piran, Slovenia
Back Into The Mountains
As tempting as it is to simply sit and enjoy this lovely town for days on end, the mountains beckon, the motorcycle needs to be ridden. So north we go, back into the Julian Alps, crossing into Italy via Predil Pass. The great little back road to Sella Nevea introduces us to something new—hairpin turns in tunnels. Only the Italians build roads like this!
An overnight near Tolmezzo, Italy means mountains at all compass quarters. As the Alpine riding is almost over, it is time for a big riding day. Cross the Plöckenpass into Austria, then conquer the famous Grossglockner High Alpine Road, and finally ride over Gerlospass, located in the High Tauern National Park. The Krimml waterfall, highest in Austria, cascades over 1,247 feet down a mountainside alongside this pass. Our last on-the-road overnight is in the ski town of Zell am Ziller, perfectly situated in the impressive Ziller valley.
The last day’s ride, to Munich, could be a mostly direct ‘get there’ if one is inclined. Better, surely, is to climb up out of the valley and take the high road, the tiny Zillertalhohenstrasse, and play around just a bit more in the mountains before arriving in Munich.
Oktoberfest
Arriving back where it all began, a change is in the air. Munich isn’t quite the same. Many of the locals are spotted here and there in traditional costume – dirndls for the ladies and lederhosen for the men. It is Oktoberfest!
When King Ludwig I married Crown Princess Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen in 1810 they threw a week-long party for everyone in Munich. That tradition continues, in the same spot, to this day. A few more people attend these days (3 million!) and it runs a bit longer (3 weeks) but it is still a very special event. Off we go to enjoy an afternoon at this mad-cap affair with lunch, maybe a beer or two, and the intent to create a zillion laughs and memories.
Five countries, hundreds of mountains, corners by the thousands, and enough memories for forever. What a grand frolic!
